Just when I was thinking that I needed an interesting topic to write about, the Lord seemed to reply by sending a record-breaking cold front and serious snowstorm (by Italian standards) to the city of Rome. Snow is a rather rare occurrence here, and the last comparable storm was in 2012. Before that they speak of the storms in 1956 and 1986. Ironically, I was present for the 1986 storm, when I was a student here in Rome.
The famous snowfall of 1986 was the day before Ash Wednesday. As a result, the pope, at that time, John Paul II, did not make his annual trip to Sant’Anselmo, the Benedictine headquarters (for lack of a better word) on the Aventine Hill, where I then lived.
The pope customarily begins Ash Wednesday ceremonies at Sant’Anselmo, and then processes along with many Benedictine monks and Dominican friars, to the nearby Basilica of Santa Sabina, the Dominican headquarters, for the Mass of Ash Wednesday, which includes the distribution of ashes after the homily. I forget now exactly how the 1986 Ash Wednesday Mass was carried out that year, but definitely the pope was not present.
Rome’s recent snowfall, beginning in the early hours of Monday, February 26, 2018, lasted well into the morning, and for all practical purposes paralyzed the Eternal City. Since the storm was predicted, it was announced the night before that all schools, most businesses, museums, monuments and many public parks were to be closed. Also, bus and tram service would be seriously reduced as the streets were to be icy and snow-packed. Rome’s two main airports were also affected.
Several subway and train stations had provided temporary housing and blankets for the homeless during the night of the storm. At another shelter it was possible for homeless with animals to lodge.
Only a few inches of snow actually fell on February 26th, but for a city very unused to snow, the storm’s crippling effect was evident.
People were advised not to take to the roads as the conditions were less than favorable that day. I imagine that many places in the United States are quite used to regular and more significant snowfall throughout the winter and life pretty much carries on as normal, though perhaps with an hour or so delay before the opening of schools and businesses.
In Rome, even a small amount of snow has debilitating consequences. I am sure that many rejoiced in the fact and slept in late on February 26th, lounged around the apartment or house some or much of the day, and generally enjoyed a mid-winter break, even if just for a day.
The Italian army was called upon to help with clearing streets and sidewalks and of snow and slush on February 26th and many volunteers, some 1,500, also joined in the efforts.
With other work actually on the agenda for the morning of the February 26th snowstorm, a group of us monks at Sant’Ambrogio decided to take up a different project and walk to Saint Peter’s Square, to enjoy the sights and sounds of a city hardly ever covered with snow.
The walk to Saint Peter’s usually takes about twenty minutes. Because of the icy and slippery streets and sidewalks, it took closer to half an hour. There were other people also on foot, seeming to enjoy the adventure as we were. Few were behind the wheel.
Along the way to Piazza San Pietro, the usually bustling Campo de’ Fiori with its huge daily outdoor market was not in operation. The square had people walking through it and taking photos, but the normally noisy and lively shopping for food and goods simply wasn’t taking place.
When we reached Saint Peter’s Square, I saw policemen taking photos of themselves and of the piazza, as the relatively large crowd was also doing. Assorted snowmen, including one definitely in the likeness of a bishop, with miter and crosier, dotted the square. People were slipping and sliding on the icy piazza, and we noticed some youngsters with “classic” wooden and metal snow sleds in tow. That was something I had never seen in Rome before!
Some snowball fights were also taking place in Saint Peter’s Square and the atmosphere was definitely lively and enjoyable. There were clergy and religious sisters taking up snowballs along with laity and all seemed to be having a very good time. We more sober monks didn’t take up snowballs but took some time to enjoy the sights and sounds, and take some photos of the merriment. Afterwards we went on to a nearby bar for some coffee and in my case, orange juice.
I might add here that I continue to surprise people by my non-consumption of coffee. This is definitely puzzling to people, especially Italians, who take coffee consumption very seriously and presume that all people must delight in it as well. I explain that I don’t mind the smell of coffee, but cannot imagine drinking it. Occasionally, though, I indulge in fresh-squeezed orange juice, often referred to as a “bella spremuta.”
After the coffee and juice, we monks made some visits to book shops and then returned to Sant’Ambrogio for the work we had left behind by a side trip to Saint Peter’s Square that morning. The temperatures that day hovered around freezing and the snow melted some during the day, but not significantly, and there was freezing by nightfall.
By the next day there was still some snow visible in the streets, on tree and roof tops, but clearly the worst had past. Moisture has been in short supply in recent times in Rome and in fact normally free flowing fountains were turned off last summer to help conserve water. I am guessing this winter is bringing a fair amount of moisture to the mountains and cities and that the coming spring and summer will not be as desperate regarding water as was the case last year.
The media certainly covered the “monster storm” of February 26, 2018, with many photos online and in print of a transformed city under the cover of Mother Nature’s white mantle. The New York Times had a major article later that day, entitled, “Snow Falls in Rome, and the Eternal City Takes a Holiday.”
I certainly enjoyed the day, cold and windy though it was, and it brought back memories of the storm of 1986. As I recall, many branches of umbrella pine trees of Rome came down during that storm, which I believe dropped more snow that the February snowfall of 2018.
Whenever snow comes, Rome is clearly in an “emergency mode” and life is anything but “normal” during that time. Yes, it is probably more prudent to stay indoors and reduce the risk of falling on the ice, but many folks, including us monks working in the Eternal City, cannot be convinced of this, and simply have to get out and enjoy it all.
